It is also used as a sensory additive and thickening agent. A helper ingredient that helps to make the products stay nice longer, aka preservative. But even if everything is right, it’s not enough on its own. A natural and sustainable helper ingredient that can improve the absorption of the formula and it also reduces oiliness on the skin. Also, it's an effective deodorant and a medium spreading emollient. A super commonly used thickener and emulsion stabilizer. This long-named, polymer molecule (big molecule from repeated subunits) is a helper ingredient that's good at emulsifying and stabilizing oils into water-based formulas. In cosmetics, it’s often in products that are supposed to keep your skin matte as it has great oil-absorbing abilities. HADA LABO Goku-jyun Alpha Cream. A preservative that works mainly against fungi. It does so by neutralizing the metal ions in the formula (that usually get into there from water) that would otherwise cause some not so nice changes. It's known and grown for jojoba oil, the golden yellow liquid coming from the seeds (about 50% of the weight of the seeds will be oil). Normal (well kind of - it's purified and deionized) water. An amino acid that is one of the primary building blocks of hair keratin and skin collagen. Blended with red and black iron oxides, it is essential in all "flesh-toned" makeup products. It's a super commonly used water-thin volatile silicone that gives skin and hair a silky, smooth feel. With Most24™ technology to provide long lasting hydration It’s also used as a helper ingredient to thicken up products or suspend insoluble particles. Rinse thoroughly. The reason for this is that salt acts as a fantastic thickener in cleansing formulas created with ionic cleansing agents (aka surfactants) such as Sodium Laureth Sulfate. Cream ingredients explained: Water, Butylene Glycol, Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone, Caprylic/Capric Glycerides, Glycerin, Isononyl Isononanoate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Squalane, Glyceryl Stearate, Lactose, PEG-100 Stearate, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter), Silica, Astrocaryum Murumuru Seed Butter, … A great skin soother and moisturizer, and it even shows promising anti-aging benefits. It is also used as a sensory additive and thickening agent. It's a sweet tasting sugar substitute that helps your skin to hold onto water when used in cosmetic products. It's also a texturizer and thickener for oil-in-water emulsions. It’s safe and gentle, and can be used up to 1% worldwide. Normal, everyday table salt. Soluble Collagen refers to the big, natural collagen molecules mostly extracted from fish or bovine skin. The unsaturated (with double bonds) and hence less stable version of Squalane is Squalene, you can read about it here >>. It's often paired with glyceryl stearate - the two together form a super effective emulsifier duo that's salt and acid tolerant and works over a wide pH range. It also forms a protective barrier on the skin and fills in fine lines. Super common little helper ingredient that helps products to remain nice and stable for a longer time. It's also a texturizer and thickener for oil-in-water emulsions. It's a natural moisturizing factor, a skin hydrator and might also help to speed up wound healing. (Use it at night if possible!). alcohol. It helps to soften scars and increase their elasticity. The Hada Labo Hyaluronic Acid Lotion is a very effective humectant moisturizer that comes with glycerin and three different types of hyaluronic acid, which will hydrate the skin immensely and promote the wound healing process. Firm and smooth the look of your skin as you moisturize. It occurs naturally in certain fish and plant oils (e.g. It's free of allergens, gluten, sulfates, parabens, polyethylene glycol (PEG) and synthetic fragrances. An oil soluble vitamin C derivative that has mixed data about its effectiveness. Normal, everyday table salt. A white powdery thing that's the major component of glass and sand. It was already used by ancient Egyptians to help oil and fat magically turn into something else. Thanks. It's the salt form of famous humectant and natural moisturizing factor, hyaluronic acid. Though chemically speaking, it is alcohol (as in, it has an -OH group in its molecule), its properties are totally different from the properties of low molecular weight or drying alcohols such as denat. A form of vitamin E that works as an antioxidant. BG is approved by Ecocert and is also used enthusiastically in natural products. Probably that’s why citric acid is usually not used as an exfoliant but more as a helper ingredient in small amounts to adjust the pH of a formulation. We wrote way more about ceramides at ceramide 1, so click here to know more. Depending on your hair type, it can be a bit difficult to wash out and might cause some build-up (btw, this is not true to all silicones, only the non-volatile types). See the list below for details. And last but not least, when salt is right at the first spot of the ingredient list (and is not dissolved), the product is usually a body scrub where salt is the physical exfoliating agent. The fatty acids attached to the glycerin vary and thus we have many kinds of oils, but they are all triglycerides. After using their hype product Hada Labo Hydrating lotion, I am intrigued to try their other products as well. Also used for scar treatment. The better affinity comes from the acetyl groups that act as tiny "anchors" to attach the HA molecule to the skin. Gentle cream, when applied to the skin feels fresh, silky smooth. It’s a great pick for creating a nice feeling product. Firstly, it's stability is only similar to that of pure ascorbic acid (AA), which means it is not really stable. Chemically speaking, it is a saturated (no double bonds) hydrocarbon (a molecule consisting only of carbon and hydrogen), meaning that it's a nice and stable oily liquid with a long shelf life. You can usually find it right in the very first spot of the ingredient list, meaning it’s the biggest thing out of all the stuff that makes up the product. It’s a nice ingredient that just feels good on the skin, is super well tolerated by every skin type and easy to formulate with. Great natural moisturizer and skin-identical ingredient that plays an important role in skin hydration and general skin health. It’s the - sodium form - cousin of the famous NMF, hyaluronic acid (HA). Hada Labo Sha Hydrating A.C.E. It’s a so-called fatty alcohol, a mix of cetyl and stearyl alcohol, other two emollient fatty alcohols. After this, it's not very surprising that the extract itself is also a great skin moisturizer almost as good as superstar NMF, hyaluronic acid. Eating it is anti-diabetic, anti-cancer and even lowers the blood cholesterol. Yellow Iron Oxide is the super common inorganic (as in no carbon atom in the molecule) pigment that gives the yellow tones in your foundation. Arbutin Whitening Cream 50g. Another advantage of squalane is that it is pretty much compatible with all skin types and skin conditions. However, too much of it causes the phenomenon called "salting out", and the surfactant solution goes runny again. It’s mainly a solvent for ingredients that do not like to dissolve in oils but rather in water. The common thing between all versions is, that unlike most normal triglyceride oils, jojoba esters have superior stability, provide non-greasy emolliency and are readily absorbed into the skin. Its special thing is being an osmolyte, a molecule that helps to control cell-water balance. For example, in case of AHA or BHA exfoliants, the right pH is super-duper important, and pH adjusters like sodium hydroxide are needed. HADA LABO Goku-jyun Alpha Lotion. Thanks to the positive charge, it also creates a complex with AHAs (AHAs like to lose a hydrogen ion and be negatively charged, so the positive and the negative ions attract each other) that causes a "time-release AHA effect" and reduces the irritation associated with AHAs. A vegetable-based, PEG-free ingredient whose job is to help water and oil to mix nicely together (emulsifier). An emollient and natural moisturizer that can be found also in the sebum (oily stuff our skin produces). It is especially recommended for protective, baby care and general purpose emollient creams. ... Moisturizer. Works as an excellent surface hydrator in skincare. It's readily biodegradable. A handy helper ingredient (a polymer, i.e. You can read all about the pure form here. Chemically speaking, it is the attachment of a glycerin molecule to the fatty acid called stearic acid. Thanks. Soluble Collagen refers to the big, natural collagen molecules mostly extracted from fish or bovine skin. To do that it has to break down to its active form, sorbic acid. A white, elastomeric silicone powder that gives a nice silky and powdery feel to the products. Mother Nature created triglycerides to be easily hydrolyzed (be broken down to a glycerin + 3 fatty acid molecules) and oxidized (the fatty acid is broken down into small parts) - this happens basically when we eat fats or oils and our body generates energy from it. One of the many types of ceramides that can be found naturally in the upper layer of the skin. HADA LABO … Other tasks include helping the product to absorb faster and deeper into the skin (penetration enhancer), making the product spread nicely over the skin (slip agent), and attracting water (humectant) into the skin. It’s approved by Ecocert and also used in the food industry (E415). The most common type of feared-by-everyone-mostly-without-scientific-reason parabens. HADA LABO Goku-Jyun Milk ingredients: website version vs. my packaging version One reason I decided to buy the milk vs. the lotion was I liked that it contained squalane. The study was not done with real people on real skin but still - using a good sunscreen next to MP containing products is a good idea. A hydrocarbon-based emollient that can come in different viscosities from silky-light through satiny-smooth to luxurious, rich. BUY NOW. It does so by neutralizing the metal ions in the formula (that usually get into there from water) that would otherwise cause some not so nice changes. We are highly skeptical what effect a tiny amount of AP has in a formula. Please try again later! The unsaturated (with double bonds) and hence less stable version of Squalane is Squalene, you can read about it here >>. It's a common little helper ingredient that helps water and oil to mix together. It works even better when combined with its pal, Ceramide 1. It's also a solvent, humectant and to some extent a penetration enhancer. Hyaluronic Acid intensely hydrates and restores skin's moisture. Super common little helper ingredient that helps products to remain nice and stable for a longer time. It's an ester form of vitamin A (retinol + palmitic acid) that belongs to the "retinoid family". A natural corn sugar derived glycol. It can be found in nature - in green tea - but the version used in cosmetics is synthetic. EWG scientists reviewed the Hada Labo Gokujyun Lotion (2016 formulation) product label collected on July 02, 2016 for safety according to the methodology outlined in our Skin Deep Cosmetics Database. Like this, the products can stay more stable over time. Jojoba-derived emollient wax esters (fatty acid + fatty alcohol) that make your skin feel nice and smooth. It's quite a multi-tasker: can be used to improve skin moisturization, as a solvent, to boost preservative efficacy or to influence the sensory properties of the end formula. On balance, the point is this: in contrast to real plant oils, wax esters were designed by Mother Nature to stay on the surface and form a protective, moisturizing barrier and jojoba oil being a wax ester is uniquely excellent at doing that. It is also so gentle and non-irritant that it can actually be used in cleansers to reduce the irritating potential of harsh surfactants, aka cleansing agents. If possible use it at night, just to be on the safe side. We would add especially during the day! Skin pH balanced, low irritation. A super commonly used 5 unit long, cyclic structured silicone that is water-thin and does not stay on the skin but evaporates from it (called volatile silicone). Hada Labo Rohto Goku-jun … It makes skin supple and protects dry skin. It can be found naturally in the roots & leaves of the comfrey plant, but more often than not what's in the cosmetic products is produced synthetically. As cosmetic chemist kindofstephen writes on reddit "sodium hyaluronate disassociates into hyaluronic acid molecule and a sodium atom in solution". A kind of polymer (big molecule from repeated subunits) that helps to create beautiful gel-like textures. It’s a real goodie no matter if you eat it or put it on your face. The strong point of collagen is being a large molecule with tremendous water binding capacity, i.e. If the product is too runny, a little xanthan gum will make it more gel-like. At first glance, it seems like your average emollient plant oil: it looks like an oil and it's nourishing and moisturizing to the skin but if we dig a bit deeper, it turns out that jojoba oil is really special and unique: technically - or rather chemically - it's not an oil but a wax ester (and calling it an oil is kind of sloppy). puts it in his awesome blog post, squalane's main things are "emolliency, surface occlusion, and TEWL prevention all with extreme cosmetic elegance". The TL; DR version of HA is that it's a huge polymer (big molecule from repeated subunits) found in the skin that acts as a sponge helping the skin to hold onto water, being plump and elastic. However, for some reason, I saw slightly different versions of the HADA LABO Goku-Jyun Milk ingredient lists online vs. on the package I picked up at my local Japanese grocery store. olive), and in the sebum (the oily stuff our skin produces) of the human skin. A handy white powder that magically converts a liquid into a nice gel formula. It seems to us that squalane is in fashion and there is a reason for it. An error has occurred. Similar to my favourite Hada Labo Foaming Cleanser and other Hada Labo products, Hada Labo Moisturizer is called many different names like: Hada Labo Gokujyun Moisture Milk. Moisturizer. An ester form of vitamin A (retinol + palmitic acid) that is pretty much the least effective member of the retinoid family. It's a famous plant in Korean traditional medicine to treat infection and irritated skin. Also, it can help to increase the solubility of some other ingredients in the formula. A natural corn sugar derived glycol. It also helps to disperse insoluble particles (think color pigments or zinc/titanium dioxide sunscreen) nice and even in cosmetic formulas. It can bind huge amounts of water and it's pretty much the current IT-moisturizer. A form of skincare superstar, vitamin C. Even though we are massive vitamin C fans, Ascorbyl Palmitate (AP) is our least favorite. As for skincare, it makes the skin silky smooth, creates a subtle gloss and forms a protective barrier (aka occlusive). Refreshing light-weight cream texture that gives skin an instant surge of suppleness and non-greasy comfort. As far as skincare goes, sodium hyaluronate and hyaluronic acid are pretty much the same and the two names are used interchangeably. As f.c. Instructions : After removing your makeup and cleansing with HADA LABO Goku-jyun Face Wash, pour a nickel-size amount of the lotion into your palm and rub between your hands to warm. BG is approved by Ecocert and is also used enthusiastically in natural products. It's quite a multi-tasker: can be used to improve skin moisturization, as a solvent, to boost preservative efficacy or to influence the sensory properties of the end formula. No wonder, it is a very popular and common ingredient. Its recommended used range is 0.3-3%. It's produced sustainably from corn sugar and it's Ecocert approved. HADA LABO+ SENSITIVE SKIN HYDRATING CREAMY WASH. ... Natural ingredients to calm and soothe irritation and skin redness. By steps, we mean metabolic steps. A helper ingredient that's good at stabilizing water-based formulas and also serves as a thickener. The most common type of feared-by-everyone-mostly-without-scientific-reason parabens. There is also some research showing that citric acid with regular use (think three months and 20% concentration) can help sun-damaged skin, increase skin thickness and some nice hydrating things called glycosaminoglycans in the skin. This one is the so-called esterified version. The ingredients in Hadalabo moisturizer are quite diverse with many special and relatively benign moisturizing formulas such as: Vitamin C helps the skin become soft and fresh, brightens the skin and whitens, this is also a familiar ingredient in skincare products and especially suitable for oily girls. It's produced sustainably from corn sugar and it's Ecocert approved. Bottom line: If you wanna get serious about retinoids, RP is not your ingredient (retinol or tretinoin is!). That is probably no coincidence. Buy Rohto Hada Labo and other Japanese Beauty Skincare in Australia at Lila Beauty. Hada Labo Tokyo is a new generation of lightweight and deeply hydrating anti-aging solutions for a beautifully radiant and youthful complexion. It is there in lots of products in tiny amounts (honestly, we do not really understand why), however, we do not know about any vitamin C serum featuring AP in high amounts. Apply a pea-size amount into palm and work into lather. Using Humectants in Winter or Dry Climates. It is created by attaching ten water-loving glycerin molecules with the oil-loving fatty acid, stearic acid. Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate is a variation of current IT moisturizer, Hyaluronic acid, where some water-loving -OH groups are replaced by amphipathic (partly water-loving and partly water-hating) acetyl groups. Thanks to all its beneficial components, Purslane Extract has several magic properties: it's a great anti-inflammatory and antioxidant agent and also has wound healing abilities. Jojoba-derived emollient wax esters (fatty acid + fatty alcohol) that make your skin feel nice and smooth. The only good thing we can write about Ascorbyl Palmitate is that there is an in-vitro (made in the lab, not on real people) study showing that it might be able to boost collagen production. If you wanna become a real HA-and-the-skin expert you can read way more about the topic at hyaluronic acid (including penetration-questions, differences between high and low molecular weight versions and a bunch of references to scientific literature). The number in the name of Ceteareth emulsifiers refers to the average number of ethylene oxide molecules added and 20 makes a good emulsifier. Used alone, it can make the formula sticky and it is a good team player so it is usually combined with other thickeners and so-called rheology modifiers (helper ingredients that adjust the flow and thus the feel of the formula). It’s pretty much the current IT-preservative. BTW, lye is not something new. So, AP is one of the attempts by the cosmetics industry to solve the stability issues with vitamin C while preserving its benefits, but it seems to fall short on several things. stays on the skin) dimethicone as the two together form a water-resistant, breathable protective barrier on the skin without a negative tacky feel. Sodium hydroxide in itself is a potent skin irritant, but once it's reacted (as it is usually in skin care products, like exfoliants) it is totally harmless. This does not mean that ascorbyl palmitate cannot penetrate the skin (because it can, it's oil soluble and the skin likes to absorb oil soluble things) but this means that it's questionable if ascorbyl palmitate can be converted into pure Vit C in the skin. It soothes, moisturizes and even shows some anti-aging magic properties. It was only an in-vitro study meaning that it was done on cell cultures and not on real people, but still, this also does not support the use of AP too much. Bottom line: Beta-glucan is a great ingredient, especially for sensitive skin. The modified molecule is claimed to have even better moisture retention ability than normal HA and better affinity to the skin surface. Putting collagen on your skin for anti-aging purposes is like throwing tent poles onto a ramshackle tent and expecting the tent to magically become nice and firm again. Chemically speaking, pure jojoba oil is also a wax ester (read our shiny explanation here), however, the ingredients called jojoba esters on the ingredient lists are made from jojoba oil and/or hydrogenated jojoba oil via interesterification. Betain's special thing is being an osmolyte, a molecule that helps to control cell-water balance. An AHA that comes from citrus fruits. The typical use level of Xantha Gum is below 1%, it is usually in the 0.1-0.5% range. In spite of this, if you search for "hyaluronic acid vs sodium hyaluronate" you will find on multiple places that sodium hyaluronate is smaller and can penetrate the skin better. No wonder it’s popular. Other than having a good safety profile and being quite gentle to the skin it has some other advantages too. Attachment of a glycerin molecule to the products can stay more stable over time and the two names are interchangeably. 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